Day 1: We woke up in Chennai in the south of India. We had landed about midnight the night before. (When we landed, there were about 500 people outside the airport. Half of them were there to pick up arriving passengers. The other half were taxi drivers. We had gotten a cab and headed to our hotel. The cab ride alone was an overwhelming experience - we passed slums with people sleeping on the roofs and chai stands and people on bicycles and and there were fireworks going off for Diwali and there were piles of rubbish everywhere and, at times, the whole city smelled like poop). Jigar woke me up at 7. He was already dressed and showered. He was so excited to be in India for Diwali that he couldn't sleep. In the south, they celebrate Diwali the day before the north so the celebrations were already underway in Chennai. We could hear the fireworks already. We went downstairs and got some breakfast in our hotel. It was a buffet with idly, uppama, and sambar along with some other things that I don't know the names of. It was by far the best breakfast we have had in our travels thus far. It made our stop in Chennai worthwhile, just for the breakfast.We headed to the airport to catch our flight to Ahmedabad, Jigar's hometown. It was there that I learned that many places in India have what they call "Indian Toilets" (which is a hole in the floor that you squat over) and not many have "European Toilets" (the kind we are accustomed to). After some searching, I found a usable "European Toilet", only to find out that they don't use toilet paper in India! There is a system here that involves a pitcher of water and your left hand... I don't really want to elaborate. Anyway, thank goodness for pocket packs of tissues!
We got to Ahmedabad at about 1:30 in the afternoon. Jigar's dad met us at the airport bearing flowers for me. We drove to their house and some family friends were there to perform the welcoming pooja (ceremony or prayer) to welcome me to the house for the first time. We were both really, really happy to finally be in Ahmedabad.
After visiting with them, we had lunch. Then we had a rest before we got things ready for Diwali the next day. Diwali is like Christmas for Indians. It is the festival of lights so we filled up a whole lot of oil lamps and made the wicks out of special ceremonial cotton.
We lit the lamps and set them up all around the house. A neighbor came over to visit with his son for a bit and helped us with the lamps.
After that, Jigar's dad taught me how to make chai (that's Hindi for tea). Then we headed out to do some shopping. On Diwali, you are supposed to wear new clothes so I needed a new dress. We went out and got me some Indian clothes. They are so comfortable and still so pretty!
We went to the temple and we also stopped by a shop and got some sweets because you are supposed to eat a lot of sweets on Diwali. We finally stopped by and got some sandwiches (bhaji pau) before heading home. We got home after 11, and one of Jigar's friend's (Manish) and his wife (Dhwani) came over to visit. We were hanging out with them until 2am! The good thing is that they speak English so I was able to participate in a conversation for the first time all day.
Day 2: We woke up and Jigar's dad wasn't around. We found out that the neighbor (who had visited the night before), his mom had died in the night. Jigar's dad had gone to help them make arrangements. It was a sad beginning for Diwali. I made some chai for Jigar and some for his dad when he got home. We had a quiet day because everyone was sad. In the evening, we visited a friend of the family and then we went over to Manish's house to set off fireworks. We couldn't set them off around the Jadav house, out of respect for the neighbors.
Diwali is the festival of lights so the entire city is setting off firecrackers. Everywhere you go there is the sight, the sound, the smell, and even the taste of fireworks. By the end of the evening, I was literally dizzy from sensory overload. It was really fun, but really overwhelming.
Day 3: The day after Diwali is New Year's Day. In the morning, you do a special pooja for prosperity in the new year. You have to go to your place of business to do it and it must be done between 7 and 9am. We went to Jigar's dad's office and did the pooja.
You also have to make a rangoli. That is a design that you make outside the house so that Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth) doesn't pass you by. Jigar and I made the rangoli.
Later in the day, you go to visit your friends and family or they come visit you. I was napping during the first set of visitors. When some friends of Jigar's dad came over, I had to make them tea (since i am the only woman in the house until Jigar's mom gets back from the states)! The pressure was on! Luckily, everyone said it was really good. After that, we went and visited 3 different families, some friends and some family. We stopped by the temple along the way. I didn't understand a single conversation the whole day. There is no pressure to follow along that way! I can think about whatever I want to and just sit there and smile at people. At every house you go to, they serve you snacks and sweets so there is a lot of eating involved. That part I could do!
It is really amazing to finally be here. India is indescribable. It is the most incredible place I have ever seen. To see so much filth and poverty and yet so much joy at the same time is overwhelming. It is somehow the most beautiful place I have ever seen despite all of its flaws. There are well over a billion people and each of them does whatever they want. If there is a rotary in the road, they go around in either direction! Whatever suits them. There are so many people and animals (camels, oxen, goats, elephants and I can't count how many cows!) and cars and motorbikes and its just chaos. There are entire families on one motorbike. There are ten people in a single rickshaw. The clothes the women wear are beautiful rich colors and designs. They stand out against the backdrop of grime and dirt. They are like jewels. And right now the whole city is lit up because Diwali is the festival of lights. It is beautiful and we are really, really happy.
2 comments:
AMAZING!!!
Hey Gin,
Great update to your blog. Incredible journey. I had to smile at the contrast in the picture, with you in our beautiful indian attire while brandishing your American tattoo!
Way to go Girl!
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